Curly Hair Types Explained: From Wavy to Coily (Type 2, 3, 4 Guide)
Introduction: Curly hair comes in a spectrum of textures, broadly classified into type 2 (wavy), type 3 (curly), and type 4 (coily or kinky). These types are part of a system originally popularized by stylist Andre Walker, using numbers 14 to denote straight through coily hair and letters A, B, C to further describe curl diameter (A being the widest, C the tightest). Understanding your curl type can be a game-changer for caring for and styling your natural hair. It helps you choose appropriate products and routines that work with your texture rather than against it. Keep in mind many people have a mix of patterns on one head, and curl typing isn’t an exact science, but it’s a useful starting point. In this guide, we break down curly hair types 2, 3, and 4 explaining their characteristics, care tips, and common mistakes to avoid so you can embrace your waves, curls, or coils with confidence.
Type 2: Wavy Hair (2A, 2B, 2C) Characteristics: Type 2 hair forms “S”-shaped waves that lie somewhere between straight and curly. These waves can range from loose and fine to coarse and frizz-prone. Generally, type 2 hair tends to sit closer to the head (especially at the roots) and can lack volume at the crown. The subtypes are defined by how pronounced the wave is: 2A: Very loose, delicate waves hair may appear mostly straight with a slight bend. Strands are typically fine and thin. Volume is usually low, and the wave pattern is subtle. It’s easy to straighten 2A hair, but hard to hold a firm curl. Care: Avoid heavy products that can weigh down these soft waves. Lightweight mousses or gels work well to provide hold without flattening the hair. Because 2A hair can go limp, use volumizing techniques at the roots for example, scrunching with a light mousse or using a diffuser can add lift. A light, water-based styling foam can boost body at the crown where 2A hair tends to be flatter. 2B: Defined S-shaped waves that start around mid-length of the hair. Type 2B hair is usually thicker in strand diameter than 2A and has more noticeable wave definition and some frizz. The roots are still relatively flat, but from the mid-shaft down, you see a consistent wave. Care: 2B hair often needs more effort to straighten due to stronger waves, so always use heat protectant if you do. To enhance 2B waves, use texturizing sprays or sea salt sprays to amplify the natural “surf wave” texture. Diffusing on low heat can help waves hold shape and not collapse (since 2B waves might otherwise lose volume through the day). A lightweight curl cream or mousse scrunched into damp hair helps define waves without crunch. Also, frizz control is key using a sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoo will keep frizz at bay for 2B hair. 2C: The deepest wave pattern in the type 2 category, sometimes bordering on curls. Type 2C hair has strong, well-defined S-waves that often start right at the roots. Strands tend to be coarse or very thick, and this type is prone to frizz and dryness because the waves make it harder for natural scalp oils to travel down. Care: 2C hair usually benefits from extra moisture. Sulfate-free shampoos or even alternating with co-washing can prevent excessive drying of these waves. Between full wash days, many 2C individuals use a co-wash (conditioning cleanser) to gently refresh hair without stripping oils. Applying a leave-in conditioner under a styling mousse is a great combo for 2C: the leave-in hydrates and reduces frizz, while the mousse defines the wave pattern and adds hold. Unlike looser waves, 2C can handle slightly heavier products for example, a cream-based leave-in or serum can help tame frizz. Just avoid anything too heavy that causes build-up. Regular deep conditioning (perhaps once a week) will also keep 2C waves happy and bouncy.
Common Care Tips for Type 2: Wavy hair is the most prone to greasiness at the roots among curly types because natural oils travel relatively easily down a loose wave. Thus, type 2 hair might need washing a bit more frequently than tighter curls roughly every 23 days is common for wavies, depending on scalp oiliness. Using a sulfate-free shampoo is recommended to control frizz while cleansing. Always focus shampoo on the scalp to avoid drying out the ends. When conditioning, apply mainly from mid-length to ends (where waves need moisture) and use lightweight, non-greasy conditioners to avoid weighing hair down. Detangle gently with a wide-tooth comb or fingers while conditioner is in, to minimize breakage. To boost root volume (especially for 2A/2B), try “root clipping” (using clips at the roots while hair dries) or diffusing upside down. To maintain wave definition, avoid brushing dry hair it will disrupt the S-pattern and create poofiness; instead, only comb when wet with conditioner. Finally, remember that wavy hair can be frizz-prone, especially 2C, so using a satin pillowcase or silk scarf at night helps reduce friction and frizz by morning.
Type 3: Curly Hair (3A, 3B, 3C) Characteristics: Type 3 curls form distinct loops and spirals. These curls can range from loose, big curls (size of large sidewalk chalk or markers) to tight corkscrews about the size of a pencil. Curly (type 3) hair usually has a lot of natural body and can achieve more volume than type 2, but it also can experience dryness and frizz if not moisturized properly. Many type 3s find their hair is a mix of both well-defined curls and some looser or tighter sections that’s normal. This hair type generally needs a consistent moisturizing routine and careful handling to prevent breakage, as curls can tangle easily. The subtypes 3A, 3B, 3C differ by curl tightness: 3A: Loosest curls in the type 3 category, often looking like open, springy loops. A 3A curl’s circumference is roughly the size of a large piece of sidewalk chalk. 3A hair tends to be shiny, with a well-defined curl pattern that can easily become weighed down if too much product is used. Care: Hydration is key for 3A, but with lightweight products. Use a curl-enhancing cream or mousse on damp hair to define curls rake it through with fingers from root to tip, then scrunch upward to encourage curl formation. This “rake and scrunch” technique helps distribute product and then set the curl shape. Avoid touching your hair while it’s drying, as that creates frizz and disrupts the curl clumping. Many 3A curlies “pineapple” their hair at night (a loose high ponytail on top of the head) to protect curl shape for the next day. Because 3A curls are fairly large, they can lose definition after a day or two a light curl refresher spray (basically a leave-in conditioner spray) on dry hair can revive curls and add bounce between washes. Additionally, regular use of leave-in conditioner keeps 3A curls supple and less prone to frizz. 3B: These curls form tight spirals, about the diameter of a Sharpie marker. 3B hair usually has a combination of volume and shrinkage curls may spring up significantly shorter than the hair’s actual length due to their tight coil. Strands might be fine or coarse, but 3B hair often appears full and dense because the curls stack, giving a lot of body. Care: 3B curls are prone to dryness and frizz, so seek products with humectants like glycerin or aloe vera to attract and lock in moisture. Using a curl defining gel is highly beneficial for 3B: it provides hold to keep the spiral intact and helps combat humidity-related frizz. Look for gels with hydrating ingredients (e.g. glycerin, hyaluronic acid) so they don’t dry out the hair. Apply gel to soaking wet hair for best results this helps curls clump and reduces frizz. Gently scrunch out excess water with a microfiber towel or old T-shirt (to avoid roughing up the cuticle). Air dry or diffuse on low; once completely dry, you can scrunch out the crunch (soften any gel cast by scrunching hair lightly) to get soft, bouncy curls. Regular deep conditioning (perhaps every 12 weeks) will keep 3B curls hydrated and resilient. Also, 3B hair benefits from gentle detangling use fingers or a wide-tooth comb on wet, conditioned hair to avoid breakage. Finally, trim split ends every few months, because curls with ragged ends can tangle more. 3C: The tightest curls in the type 3 range, sometimes called “coilies” at the 3C level. 3C curls are corkscrews with a circumference similar to a pencil or straw. They are densely packed, meaning 3C hair often has a lot of volume and can feel very thick. This hair type experiences noticeable shrinkage (the curls are so tight that the hair looks much shorter dry than when wet). Care: Frizz is almost a given with 3C due to the tight texture, so the focus is on moisture and frizz management. Co-washing can be helpful for 3C to maintain hydration between less frequent shampooing many 3C curlies shampoo maybe once a week or less and co-wash mid-week to refresh. When cleansing, opt for creamy, sulfate-free cleansers or co-washes that won’t strip natural oils. After washing, layering products is a popular method: for example, apply a leave-in conditioner on wet hair for hydration, then a curl cream to define, and finally a gel or mousse to hold the curl. In fact, one pro tip from curl experts is to layer a mousse over a curl cream on soaking wet 3C hair this helps curls clump together and dry into defined ringlets. Using products on sopping wet hair allows 3C curls to group into coils and dries with less frizz. Because 3C hair is tightly coiled, it can be fragile; avoid rough brushing or combing. Detangle only when wet and slippery with conditioner. A wide-tooth comb or just fingers work best to gently work out knots. To maintain moisture, 3C hair benefits from the LOC method (Leave-in, Oil, Cream) or LCO (Leave-in, Cream, Oil) to seal in hydration. For example, after washing, apply leave-in, then a natural oil (like argan or jojoba) to seal, then a curl cream. This combats the quick moisture loss that tightly coiled hair can have. Sleeping with a bonnet or silk pillowcase is practically essential for 3C; it reduces friction that causes frizz and preserves those tight curls overnight.
Common Care Tips for Type 3: Curly hair (3A, 3B, 3C) generally needs regular moisture and gentle handling. Unlike wavy hair, type 3 curls should typically be washed less often many curlies wash once or twice a week. Over-washing can dry out curls and lead to frizz. In between wash days, co-washing or just rinsing and conditioning can refresh curls without stripping oils. Always use sulfate-free shampoos or cleansing conditioners to avoid harsh detergents that rough up the cuticle. Conditioning after every wash is non-negotiable use a rinse-out conditioner every time, focusing on mid-lengths to ends. Leave a bit of conditioner in the hair or follow with a leave-in product for ongoing hydration. When detangling, do it while conditioning: use fingers or a detangling brush with flexible bristles to minimize breakage. Styling is also crucial: applying stylers to wet hair yields better curl definition and less frizz. Whether it’s a cream, gel, or mousse, getting it on when hair is dripping ensures the product distributes well and curls form with water. Diffusing can add volume and set curls faster use a low heat, low speed setting and avoid touching hair too much with your hands. Once dry, you can use a bit of hair oil to scrunch and soften any crunchy feeling and add shine. Protective nighttime routines (like the pineapple updo or satin bonnet) will preserve your curl pattern and moisture overnight. Also, because curls can tangle, sleeping with hair gathered or in loose braids can prevent morning knots. Lastly, regular trims (every 3-4 months) help remove split ends, which keeps curls looking healthy and bouncy.
Type 4: Coily/Kinky Hair (4A, 4B, 4C) Characteristics: Type 4 hair is tightly coiled or zigzagged and often referred to as coily, kinky, or Afro-textured hair. These curls are very small in circumference ranging from roughly the size of a crochet needle (4A) to even tighter zigzag patterns that may not form a visible “curl” shape but rather sharp bends (4C). Type 4 hair strands can be fine or coarse, but they tend to be very densely packed together, giving the hair an appearance of thickness and volume. A defining trait of coily hair is shrinkage it can shrink to a fraction of its true length (often 50-75% shorter when dry). It’s also naturally the driest hair type; the tight coils make it hard for scalp oils to travel along the shaft, leading to dryness and fragility. Type 4 hair benefits greatly from protective styling and lots of moisture. Let’s break down the subtypes: 4A: Tightly coiled “S”-pattern curls about the circumference of a crochet needle or pencil. 4A coils have a clearly defined curl pattern you can see the loops, and they form springy coils. This hair retains moisture a bit better than 4B/4C because the curls, while tight, still have a discernible curl shape that products can work through. Care: 4A hair craves moisture and frequent styling attention. Co-washing is a popular method for 4A, but many also use gentle sulfate-free shampoos once a week or so. In fact, a good guideline is to wash roughly every 7 days and do a deep cleanse (clarify) about once a month to remove buildup. Regular clarifying is important because coilies often layer on lots of creams, butters, and oils which can accumulate and actually prevent moisture from penetrating if not cleared. After washing, 4A curls are often styled in wash-and-go’s applying a leave-in conditioner and curl cream, then allowing to air dry or diffuse. Using a detangling brush and sectioning the hair during styling is helpful. By working in small sections with a brush or wide-tooth comb, you ensure product reaches all strands and coils clump nicely. 4A hair is prone to breakage if dry, so weekly deep conditioning is recommended to keep coils soft and elastic. Also incorporate protective styles (like twists, braids, bantu knots) especially at night or on days off this keeps 4A coils from tangling and breaking, and it helps with growth retention. Sleeping with a satin bonnet or pillowcase is a must to prevent dryness and breakage due to friction. Finally, 4A coils can be a bit more versatile in styling (they can hold styles like twist-outs well). Just avoid excessive heat; occasional stretching via banding or African threading is safer for length without heat damage. 4B: Very tightly coiled hair that often bends in sharp angles, forming a “Z” pattern rather than a clear curl “O” or “S”. 4B strands are densely packed and the texture may feel cottony or fluffy. This type has significant shrinkage and less obvious curl definition the hair can range from pen-spring coils to a zigzag shape that doesn’t form obvious loops. Care: 4B hair is highly prone to dryness since its bent shape makes it difficult for oils to distribute. It’s also delicate and can break if not handled gently. Moisture and minimal manipulation are key. Many with 4B hair incorporate protective styling (like twists, braids, updos) as a regular part of their routine to reduce daily handling. When it comes to cleansing, a co-wash can be used frequently (since 4B scalps may not get very oily), with a gentle shampoo perhaps every 1-2 weeks to remove product buildup. Deep conditioning should be done regularly (weekly if possible) 4B really benefits from rich, emollient masks to impart moisture. Ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, and oils (olive, coconut, castor) in conditioners or leave-ins are great because they help lock moisture into this thirsty hair. For daily styling or wash days, thick styling creams are often ideal for 4B (thicker than what you’d use on looser curls) because they help with techniques like shingling or twisting. In fact, curl experts note that heavier curl creams facilitate methods such as shingling (coating and defining each curl/coils with product) or palm-rolling, which can stretch and clump 4B coils for more definition and manageability. 4B hair often thrives with the LOC method (Liquid, Oil, Cream) to layer moisture for example, apply water or leave-in (Liquid), then a natural oil like jojoba or castor (Oil) to seal, then a creamy butter-based styler (Cream) to further lock in moisture and style. Another tip: avoid combing 4B hair when dry. Only detangle when it’s wet and loaded with slippery conditioner, using fingers or a wide-tooth comb. This prevents excessive breakage of the tight coils. Trimming split ends every few months will keep tangles down. Also, because 4B hair can shrink dramatically, stretching techniques like twist-outs, braid-outs, or banding can be useful to show length and reduce tangling just ensure hair is moisturized and gently stretched to not cause tension on strands. 4C: The most tightly coiled and fragile hair type, often with a tight zigzag pattern that may be difficult to see with the naked eye. 4C hair typically has major shrinkage it can shrink over 75% of its actual length. Some 4C strands form tiny coils, while others zigzag with no defined curl pattern; it’s common for 4C not to form uniform curls without styling techniques. 4C hair feels very thick and dense, and it is the most prone to dryness and breakage due to the tightly folded cuticle and difficulty in spreading natural oils. Care: The focus for 4C hair is maximum moisture, gentle care, and protective styling. Regular shampoo can be very drying for 4C, so many alternate with co-washing and only shampoo (sulfate-free) when needed, such as every 2-4 weeks or when buildup is noticeable. When shampoo is used, follow immediately with a rich deep conditioner or mask. 4C hair benefits from long deep conditioning sessions using a heat cap or steamer to help the conditioner penetrate deeply into the hair can make a big difference. Leave the conditioner or hair mask on for 30 minutes or more (with heat, if possible) to really hydrate the strands. After rinsing, a liberal amount of leave-in conditioner should be applied. For styling, heavier products like butters and heavy creams are often very helpful for 4C. They provide both moisture and a bit of weight, which can help elongate those tight coils slightly and reduce shrinkage. Sealing in moisture is crucial: using thick oils (like castor oil) or hair grease on top of a leave-in can seal the cuticle and prevent rapid moisture loss. Indeed, castor oil is frequently recommended for 4C as it’s a great sealant to combat dryness. When detangling 4C, it’s often easiest to do so during deep conditioning, in sections. Work on one small section at a time, use fingers first to pull apart major tangles, and then a wide-tooth comb if needed. It’s normal for 4C to have a lot of shrinkage and appear to have less definition; many 4C individuals use stretching hairstyles (twist-outs, braid-outs, bantu knot-outs) to create a curl pattern and reduce tangles. Protective styles like box braids, cornrows, wigs, or weaves are popular too they allow the hair to be left alone to retain length, as long as you still moisturize the hair and scalp while in the style. A key concern for 4C is preventing breakage: always sleep with a satin bonnet or pillowcase to reduce friction, avoid tight styles that put tension on the hairline, and keep the hair moisturized via leave-ins, creams, and even daily water spritzes. Trimming as needed keeps ends healthy (some do a dusting every few months). Lastly, don’t forget the scalp with heavy product use, occasional gentle clarifying (using a clarifying shampoo or an apple cider vinegar rinse) will ensure the scalp stays clean and can thrive.
Common Care Tips for Type 4: Coily hair needs a delicate balance of moisture and low-manipulation. Hydration is everything type 4 hair should be regularly deep conditioned and moisturized. Many find success following the LOC or LCO method to layer moisture and seal it in. Given how dry type 4 can get, using a leave-in conditioner after washing and then sealing with oils or butters is a routine staple. Another tip is to use warm water or steam when conditioning; heat opens up the tightly closed cuticles of coily hair, allowing conditioner to penetrate better. After applying a deep conditioner, wearing a plastic cap and sitting under a warm dryer or wrapping a warm towel around your head can significantly boost moisture absorption. Protective styling is highly beneficial styles that tuck the ends away (like twists, braids, updos) help retain moisture and minimize daily breakage. But even in protective styles, continue to moisturize your hair (for instance, spritz with water and apply leave-in on braids or twists every few days). Coily hair also benefits from scalp care: because styles might be kept for a week or more, ensure your scalp is cleansed periodically and oils or buildup are removed use a gentle astringent like diluted witch hazel on a cotton pad in between washes if needed to keep scalp fresh. When it comes to detangling, patience is key: work in small sections, use lots of conditioner or detangling spray, and consider finger detangling to feel knots and gently separate them instead of ripping through with a comb. Shrinkage can be intense in type 4, but it’s a sign of healthy elasticity; learn to love it, but if you want to show off more length occasionally, use stretching methods rather than heat. For instance, putting hair in large twists or braids after washing and letting it dry stretched will result in elongated curls when you take them out (a twist-out/braid-out). This can reduce tangling and single-strand knots as well. Finally, listen to your hair’s needs: type 4 hair, especially 4C, may not need frequent washing doing so can dry it out. Focus on moisture, and wash in a way that doesn’t strip the oils (co-wash in between shampoos). If you notice product buildup (hair feels coated or products aren’t absorbing), it’s time to clarify with a stronger shampoo and then follow with a deep condition to replenish moisture.