How to Build a Curly Hair Routine (Washing, Conditioning, Styling)
Introduction: Curly hair thrives on consistency and care. Unlike straight hair, curls often have specific needs they can be dry, prone to tangles, and sensitive to how they’re handled. That’s why having a structured curly hair routine is so important. Think of a routine as a personalized roadmap that takes your hair from wash day to wash day in its best shape. A good routine covers cleansing, conditioning, styling, and maintenance between washes. The goal is to keep your curls healthy, moisturized, and well-defined, while fitting into your lifestyle. In this guide, we will outline how to build an effective curly hair regimen from scratch, covering everything from how often to wash, what products to use at each step, how to detangle without damage, and how to style for beautiful curls. We’ll also include tips from experts on optimizing your routine (like how to preserve your curls overnight). Whether you’re a curly newbie or looking to improve your current hair habits, this step-by-step approach will help you give your curls the consistent TLC they need. Remember, a routine doesn’t mean an elaborate 2-hour process it means smart habits done regularly. As celebrity curl stylist Vernon François says, “Consistency is key the things you do for your curls regularly make the biggest difference”. Let’s dive into creating a curly routine that leaves you loving your hair every day!
Step 1: Cleansing Wash Your Curls the Right Way How and how often you wash your curls forms the foundation of your routine. The aim is to clean your scalp and hair of excess oil, dirt, and product buildup without stripping away all the natural moisture.
Frequency of Washing: Curly hair generally does not need to be washed daily. In fact, over-washing (especially with harsh shampoos) can dry out curls and cause frizz. Most curl experts suggest cleansing about 1 to 3 times per week, depending on your hair’s needs. For looser curls or wavy hair (which can get oilier), 2-3 times a week might work. Tighter curls or coils, which are drier, might do once a week or even once every 10 days. Pay attention to your scalp: if it’s feeling itchy or greasy, it’s time to wash. If it’s fine and your curls still look good, you can extend another day or two. There’s no universal rule; find your hair’s sweet spot. As curl specialist Curl Maven notes, “the goal is the health of your hair and scalp, not to see how long you can go without washing”. In other words, don’t force too long between washes if it’s compromising cleanliness a clean, healthy scalp is crucial for hair growth and curl vitality.
Choose the Right Cleanser: Ditch any sulfate-laden, clarifying every-day shampoos that leave your hair squeaky clean (that squeak = stripped). Sulfate-free shampoos (low-poos) or cleansing conditioners (co-washes) are much better for regular use on curls. A sulfate-free shampoo will cleanse with milder surfactants, removing dirt but keeping more natural oils intact. Co-washing (washing with conditioner) is an option if your hair is very dry or if you’re following the Curly Girl Method strictly, but many find a combo works: co-wash on some wash days, and use a gentle shampoo on others. Some curly routines alternate e.g., co-wash mid-week and shampoo on the weekend. If you do use a shampoo, look for terms like “moisturizing”, “sulfate-free”, “curl cleansing cream”, etc. Also ensure it’s free of silicones (which can build up). There are also cleansing oils/creams on the market for curls that barely lather but do clean these can be wonderful for coarse, dry curls.
Pre-Shampoo (Pre-Poo) optional: If your hair is prone to tangling or very dry, doing a pre-poo treatment can be a game changer. This means applying a bit of conditioner or oil to your dry hair before you shampoo, letting it sit 15-30 minutes. It helps detangle and protect hair from losing too much moisture during washing. For instance, applying coconut oil or a cheap conditioner as pre-poo on your lengths can reduce hygral fatigue (swelling and drying of hair). This step is especially helpful for type 4 coils or long curls that tangle easily.
Scalp Focused Washing: When you shampoo or co-wash, concentrate the product on your scalp and roots, where the oils and buildup are. Massage your scalp with fingertips in gentle circles to lift debris and stimulate blood flow (healthy scalp = healthy hair growth). Don’t roughly pile all your hair on top of your head; instead, work in sections if needed, keeping your curls hanging down in the shower as you cleanse. The lengths of your hair will get clean enough just by the shampoo runoff. If you’re co-washing, you’ll also massage the conditioner into the scalp (since co-wash has light cleansing ability).
Gentle Technique: Curly hair is fragile when wet, so avoid any vigorous scrubbing that causes tangling. Use your finger pads, not nails, on the scalp. For the length, you can gently smooth the shampoo along it, but don’t rub hair together like you’re washing clothes. A tip: wash your hair in cool to lukewarm water. Very hot water can dry hair out (and irritate your scalp) while cool water is gentler and helps with frizz (more on a cool rinse later).
Rinse Thoroughly: Product residue can cause scalp issues and dull hair, so rinse out all the shampoo or co-wash thoroughly. Let the water flow through your curls and even help detangle by running your fingers down your hair as you rinse (if your hair allows without tangling).
Clarifying Occasionally: Even with regular gentle washing, curls can accumulate buildup from conditioners, stylers, and minerals in water. Plan to clarify your hair every 4-6 weeks or whenever you sense your curls are limp, dull, or not responding to products well. Use a stronger shampoo (could be one with sulfates or a designated clarifying shampoo) to deep clean, then always follow with a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture. Clarifying resets your routine so your other products work better.
Step 2: Conditioning Restore Moisture & Detangle Conditioning is arguably the most critical part for curly hair. After cleansing, you must put back moisture into the hair and get those curls ready for detangling and styling.
Use a Rich, Curl-Friendly Conditioner: Opt for conditioners formulated for curly or textured hair these typically contain humectants (to draw moisture in), emollients (to smooth and soften), and maybe some proteins (to strengthen). Ensure it’s silicone-free if you follow a natural routine, so it doesn’t cause buildup. You might hear about balancing protein and moisture many conditioners aimed at curls try to strike that balance. If your hair is very fine, use a lighter rinse-out conditioner (too heavy can weigh you down). If it’s coarse or very dry, a thicker conditioner is good.
Apply Generously and Section if Needed: Squeeze out excess water gently after shampooing (hair should be wet but not dripping, so conditioner doesn’t get diluted too much). Take a generous amount of conditioner and apply it to your hair, focusing on mid-lengths and ends (the oldest, driest parts). You can also lightly apply some closer to the roots if those areas are dry, but avoid the scalp if you get buildup. For very thick hair, split your hair into sections and apply conditioner section by section to ensure every strand gets coated.
Detangle with Care: Use a wide-tooth comb, a detangling brush with flexible bristles, or simply your fingers to detangle while the conditioner is in your hair. Start from the ends of your hair and work upward gradually to the roots. This prevents you from compounding tangles. The conditioner should provide slip to ease out knots with minimal breakage. If you hit a snag, add more conditioner or even a bit of water, and gently work it out never yank. Many curly girls swear by using just fingers so they can feel the knots and gently separate them. Others like brushes like the Denman or Wet Brush if using those, still be gentle and ensure you have enough conditioner as a buffer. Detangling in the shower under running water can also help as the water flow assists in the slip (the “brush in shower” method convenient but be careful not to let too much hair go down the drain).
Let Conditioner Sit: After detangling, you can clip your conditioned hair up and let it sit for a few minutes (5-10) to penetrate (especially if it’s a thicker mask or if your hair needs extra love). This can double as a mini deep-conditioning each wash. Use that time to wash your body or shave, etc. Curly hair “drinks” up conditioner, so a short soak-in is beneficial.