Rinse (or Not Completely): Now, depending on your hair’s needs, you have a choice:
If your hair is easily weighed down or you plan to use a separate leave-in conditioner, you might rinse out the rinse-out conditioner mostly or fully.
If your hair is very dry, you might opt to leave some of the conditioner in. A common practice: rinse briefly with water so that some conditioner remains the hair should feel silky but not thickly coated. This helps retain more moisture.
Another route is to rinse fully, then apply a dedicated leave-in conditioner after (next step). Either way, the idea is to ensure hair is moisturized and that there’s some conditioning agent left as you move to styling. Play around to see what yields better results: some curls love a bit of rinse-out left in, others do better with a fresh leave-in product.
Deep Conditioning (Periodic): Aside from your regular conditioner, incorporate a deep conditioning treatment perhaps weekly or bi-weekly. This could be a store-bought hair mask or a DIY treatment. After shampooing, apply the mask, maybe use heat (wrap in a warm towel or sit under dryer), leave for 20-30 minutes, then rinse. Deep conditioners often have extra nourishing ingredients and sometimes protein to strengthen. They boost your routine by addressing dryness or damage more intensely. For example, if hair feels extra dry or after a clarifying wash, do a deep condition to recharge moisture. It’s a routine within your routine: many curlies have “deep conditioning Sunday” or similar as a self-care ritual. Keeping up with these treatments will make your regular routine easier because your hair will be more manageable overall.
Step 3: Leave-In and Moisturize (after rinse-out, before styling products) When you step out of the shower, don’t let your hair dry out before styling. This is where a leave-in conditioner or moisturizing product comes in. It provides ongoing moisture, helps with detangling (if you haven’t fully detangled), and creates a primer for any styling products.
Apply on Wet Hair: Gently blot your hair with a microfiber towel or T-shirt to stop it from dripping do not rough dry or fully towel-dry; curls should remain wet. Apply a leave-in conditioner to your hair in sections, focusing again on lengths and ends. A leave-in is basically a lighter, no-rinse conditioner that stays in the hair to keep it hydrated and often to protect from frizz. If you have fine hair, choose a lightweight leave-in spray or lotion to avoid heaviness. If thick/coarse, a creamier leave-in is fine.
How Much: Use enough to coat your hair lightly. For a shoulder-length dense curly head, maybe a quarter-sized dollop per section. Too little and you miss out on moisture and frizz control; too much can cause build-up or weigh hair down. You’ll learn your perfect amount by feel hair should feel slippery and moist but not sticky or greasy.
Finger Comb/Smooth: Work the leave-in through your hair evenly. You can use praying hands (smoothing along the hair) or rake with fingers to distribute. Some people like to brush their hair at this point with a Denman or a curl brush to evenly spread product and start defining curls. A “double detangle” approach is mentioned by experts: first finger detangle, then brush through with conditioner/leave-in to clump curls. But if your hair is already detangled and clumping nicely, no need to overdo.
Don’t Forget the Ends: Make sure your ends, which are the oldest and driest part, get coated with leave-in. They often need it the most to prevent looking frizzy or feeling rough.
Option: Layering a Curl Cream: Some routines include a curl cream (a moisturizing styler) at this stage, either in place of a leave-in or after it. If your hair is very dry or you want extra definition, you could apply a curl defining cream now. This can help start shaping the curls and adding weight to reduce fluff. For example, a thick 3C or 4A curly might do leave-in + curl cream, then gel. If you do this, be mindful of product compatibility (some leave-ins and creams together can over-coat; sometimes one is enough). For beginners, starting with leave-in and then gel might be simpler, adding a cream later if needed.
The LOC method: You may have heard of LOC (Leave-in, Oil, Cream) or variations. For a routine: After leave-in, you could apply a small amount of oil to seal (especially if high porosity hair), then a cream. Or LCO (Leave-in, Cream, Oil). This is more common in routines for very dry, coily hair. For many curly routines, the simplified version would be leave-in, then maybe a bit of oil, then gel. Adapt based on how much moisture retention you need. If you find moisture evaporates quickly, adding a few drops of a hair oil (like argan or jojoba) now and smoothing it over hair can help seal in the leave-in conditioner. Just use sparingly to avoid greasiness.
Time Factor: Try not to delay between stepping out of the shower and applying leave-in. Curls can start drying and frizzing quickly. Some even apply their leave-in on dripping wet hair in the shower (after rinsing out conditioner) to ensure maximum hydration gets locked in. Do whatever is convenient but earlier is better to trap that water in the hair as you apply products.
Step 4: Styling Define and Set Your Curls Styling is where you shape your curls and set them so they dry in a defined, frizz-controlled manner. What stylers you use can vary (gels, mousses, creams, etc.), but a common curly routine uses a gel for hold and maybe a mousse or cream for volume/definition.
Decide on Products: For hold and frizz-fighting, a curl gel is excellent. It creates a cast around curls as they dry, maintaining definition. If you prefer softer hold, you might opt for a mousse or a styling cream instead. Or even layer: some do cream then gel, or mousse then gel. As you build your routine, you may experiment. To start, a single styling product (like a medium-hold gel) is straightforward and effective.
Application Technique: Always style on wet hair. Curls should still be wet (if they’ve begun drying, you can spritz with water). There are a few methods:
Raking: Run product-laden fingers through hair (raking) to distribute and separate curls. Good for looser curls or if you want more elongated curls.
Praying Hands: Spread product on your palms and slide them down sections of hair (palms together like praying, with hair between them) to smooth and coat curls.
Scrunching: Especially for waves or curls that need encouragement to spring up. After distributing product lightly, gather the ends in your palm and scrunch upwards, encouraging the curl formation. You’ll often hear a squishing sound if wet enough.
“Glazing”: A term for gently coating the outside of your hair with gel by smoothing it over the top layer to tame frizz without breaking up curl clumps.
It often works well to start by raking or praying hands to get product evenly on hair, then scrunch to encourage curl shape. Amount of Styler: Don’t be shy with gel. For shoulder length curls, a couple of quarter-sized dollops might be needed, or more for long/thick hair. If using mousse, an orange-sized puff per section maybe. It’s usually better to start with a bit, scrunch it in, and add more if needed than to glob too much at once. The hair should feel slippery and coated, but you don’t want huge white blobs of product either. For gel, if you see white foam as you scrunch, that’s okay it should clear as it dries, assuming it’s a water-based curly gel. Upside-Down vs. Right-Side-Up: Some like to flip their head upside down to apply products this can increase volume since your roots are lifted off your scalp. It can also help clump curls uniformly downwards. Others prefer right-side-up for more control. You can do a bit of both: maybe apply leave-in upright, then flip over for scrunching in gel. See which gives you better distribution and volume. Combining Products: If you use a curl cream and a gel, typically you’d apply the cream first (for moisture/definition), then gel on top to lock it in. If using mousse and gel, many do gel first, then mousse to add volume as the last layer (but that can vary by product). Key is to avoid very heavy combos that take forever to dry or leave residue. When layering, use a bit less of each than you would if using alone. Curl by Curl Techniques (Optional): For more definition, some people “finger coil” certain sections twisting a curl around a finger to encourage a uniform ringlet helpful for areas with looser or frizzier curls. Another method is using a Denman brush to create ringlets: you brush a section and then while pulling out, twist the brush so the hair forms a curl as it slides off. This can create beautiful clumps, particularly for type 3 curls. These detail steps aren’t necessary but can be part of a routine if you enjoy a more defined look and have time. Clump Encouragement: If you notice some curls clump nicely but others are stringy, you can group them manually. Wet hair + product should naturally clump into curl units; you can guide clumps by smoothing sections with your fingers or the brush. The “super soaker” trick: If your curls aren’t clumping, sometimes adding more water at the styling stage helps (water plus product encourages curls to merge). Don’t be afraid to keep hair pretty wet while applying stylers. Root Styling: Curly hair can sometimes dry with flat roots (especially if it’s long/heavy). To avoid the “triangle hair” (flat on top, big at bottom), you can lift roots while drying (more in drying step) or use clips. Some routines involve using root clips small duckbill clips placed at the roots while hair is wet to prop them up giving more lift as it dries. Another trick: after applying product, shake your head gently side to side to let curls fall naturally and not all stick together on the scalp. Don’t Touch While Drying: Once styled, try to refrain from further touching/manipulating the curls. They are set in their pattern with product now, and touching can introduce frizz or break up clumps prematurely.
Step 5: Drying and Setting Ensuring Curls Dry Well How you dry your curls can make a huge difference in the final result. The mantra is generally “no touching while drying” and minimize disturbance until hair is dry.
Air Drying: The simplest but slowest method. After styling, just let your hair air dry completely. This is the most gentle because there’s no additional heat. However, it can take time some thick curly hair can take many hours. If it’s warm out or you have time at home, this yields great defined curls if you resist touching them. As it dries, your gel (if used) will harden into a “cast” that might make hair crunchy that’s normal, and you’ll scrunch it out when fully dry. While air drying, avoid sitting under a fan or in wind that causes frizz by blowing hair around.
Diffuse Drying: For faster drying or more volume, you can use a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer. A diffuser spreads the airflow so you don’t have a strong wind hitting your curls, and it often has a bowl shape to support curls as they dry. Diffusing can actually enhance curl formation and boost volume, especially at the roots. To diffuse:
Set your dryer to low or medium heat and low speed. High heat can damage and cause frizz, so though diffusing is not as harsh as direct blow drying, keep it moderate. Some people diffuse on cool to be extra safe, but it takes longer.
Flip your head forward or to the side. Gather a section of curls into the diffuser bowl and bring it toward your scalp (scrunching motion with the diffuser). Hold it there for several seconds (10-30s) to partially dry that section, then release and move to another section. This “pixie diffuse” method helps curls dry in a scrunched state, enhancing definition and reducing length (in a good way, for bounce).
Alternatively, you can “hover diffuse” holding the diffuser near your hair without touching it this reduces disturbance for super definition, though less volume lift.
Many do a combo: start with hover diffusing until a light cast forms (so curls don’t get blown out of shape), then pixie diffuse to finish drying and add volume.
Diffuse until hair is 80-100% dry. You can air dry the rest of the way if you want to avoid over-drying.
Note: Diffusing can create a bit more volume and potentially more frizz if not careful, but it’s a great tool. Always end with hair completely dry (even a bit of dampness can later turn into frizz when you move about).
Plopping: Mentioned briefly before, “plopping” is a drying technique where you tie your wet, product-filled hair up in a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt turban for a while after styling. This can soak excess water and encourage curl formation close to the head (reducing gravity’s pull which can stretch curls). Typically, you’d plop for 10-20 minutes, then remove and let hair finish air drying or diffuse. Plopping is optional some swear by it for more defined curls and convenience (no dripping), others skip it if it disrupts their curl pattern or if they want more elongated curls.
Don’t Disturb the Cast Yet: While hair is drying (air or diffuse), it may harden due to gel cast. Avoid breaking that cast early by touching hair. It acts like scaffolding holding the curls nicely until dry.
Check for Complete Dryness: Before moving to the next step (scrunching out crunch or fluffing), ensure hair is 100% dry. Any dampness and you risk introducing frizz when you touch it.
Step 6: Finishing Scrunch Out the Crunch & Add Volume Once your hair is completely dry, you likely have a crunchy gel cast on it (if you used gel). Now you will “scrunch out the crunch” (SOTC) to reveal soft curls with hold. And you can do any final fluffing for volume.
Scrunch Out the Crunch: Tilt your head forward or to the side, and using your hands (you can keep them dry or apply a few drops of a lightweight oil on your palms for extra softness/shine), gently scrunch your curls like you did when wet. You will feel the hard cast give way to softness. Do this all over you can even lightly squeeze sections or individually scrunch curls. The goal is to break that crunchy shell; you’ll notice your curls go from stiff to bouncy. They should still be well-defined, just not hard. If you prefer, you can use a T-shirt or microfiber cloth in your hands to scrunch if that helps or if your hands cause frizz. But usually with dry hair and a good cast, frizz is minimal.
Result: Now your curls should feel touchably soft but thanks to the gel’s hold, they will maintain the definition achieved while drying. This is the beauty of using a gel cast it kept your curls in shape through the drying process, and after scrunching you have best of both worlds: defined and soft.
Add Volume (if desired): If your curls are looking a bit flat at the roots or you just like big hair, you can now gently fluff the roots. One way is to put your fingers (or a hair pick) at your scalp (under the hair) and gently lift and shake a little to separate the roots. Another is to flip head over and use fingertips to massage the scalp in small circles (without messing lengths) to create lift. You can also very gently rake your fingers at the roots to loosen them (but be careful not to pull through curls fully). Some use a wide-tooth comb or pick just at the root area to lift. Essentially, you’re breaking any product cast at the roots and giving them some air, which increases volume. Do not comb all the way through your curls though that will break definition.
Assess Frizz: If you do see a bit of frizz or flyaways, you can take a tiny dab of curl cream or oil, rub between your fingers, and smooth over those areas. Or spritz a bit of water + leave-in mix and twirl a frizzy curl around your finger to redefine it. But ideally, a good routine yields minimal frizz already.
Admire and Don’t Overdo: It’s easy to keep fiddling with curls once they’re nice, but over-touching can create frizz or cause them to get oily faster. Once you’ve SOTC and fluffed a bit, try to leave them be.
Now you have a head of clean, moisturized, defined curls! But the routine doesn’t stop on wash day.
Step 7: Night Routine Protecting Your Curls A crucial part of a curly hair routine is how you protect your hair between wash days, especially during sleep. Curly hair can easily tangle or frizz if you just sleep on it loose on a cotton pillowcase.
Pineapple: This is a popular technique: loosely gather your hair into a very high ponytail on top of your head (resembles a pineapple shape). Use a scrunchie or coil hair tie that won’t cause a crease or breakage. The idea is that all your curls sit on top of your head, so when you sleep, you’re not lying on them and crushing them only maybe the very back is slightly pressed. It preserves curl shape and volume (curls near the hair tie might stretch a bit but that’s usually the underside). For shorter hair that can’t pineapple, you can make two or more loose ponytails (“mini pineapples”) or just wear a bonnet.
Satin or Silk Bonnet/Scarf: Covering your hair with a silk or satin bonnet is excellent for preventing friction. Cotton pillowcases suck moisture and create friction that leads to frizz and breakage. A satin bonnet keeps hair contained and glides on the fabric. If you pineapple, you can also put a bonnet over the pineapple for double protection. Alternatively, you can wrap a silk scarf around your hair (there are various techniques to wrap for curls).
Silk/Satin Pillowcase: If bonnets aren’t your thing, at least invest in a satin or silk pillowcase. That way, even if your hair moves at night, it’s against a smooth surface that won’t rough it up. Many curlies do both bonnet and pillowcase for best effect (so if the bonnet slips off, you still have the pillowcase).
Sleep Styles: Some find doing a couple of loose twists or braids on their hair before bed helps reduce tangles. This might loosen your curl pattern a bit by morning, but it can be a way to stretch curls if that’s desired. But if you want to maintain natural curl shape, pineapple/bonnet is usually enough.
The Goal: The next morning, you should be able to take down your pineapple, shake your hair out, maybe spritz a little water or fluff, and have curls that are still mostly intact from the previous day. This makes your style last longer so you don’t have to start from scratch every day.
Step 8: Refreshing Between Washes Your routine extends to how you manage your hair on the days you’re not washing. “Refreshing” means perk up your curls so they look good on day 2, 3, etc., without fully washing.
Light Spritz of Water or Mix: Often just misting your hair with water is enough to reactive yesterday’s product and re-form curls. Use a spray bottle to evenly dampen hair (not soak, just lightly damp). Then scrunch your curls; the cast might reform a bit as they dry.
Leave-in or Curl Refresher: Some use a refresh spray (which could be a diluted leave-in conditioner or a product specifically marketed for refreshing). You can DIY by mixing some conditioner with water in a spray bottle. The added moisture and a tiny bit of conditioner can smooth frizzies and rehydrate curls.
Additional Product: If some areas are really frizzy or the curls have flattened, you can take a pea-sized amount of curl cream or a little gel, mix with water in your palms, and apply to those sections, twirling or scrunching to encourage the curl. Be cautious adding too much product on refresh or it can build up a little usually does it.
Spot Treatments: You don’t necessarily wet all your hair; sometimes just the front pieces or wherever got wonky during sleep. For instance, the curls at your neck might get sweaty or frizzy just spritz those and smooth them around your finger. Or if an end is bent out of shape, wet it and coil it around your finger to reshape.
Diffuse to Set (Optional): If you have time, you can diffuse a bit after refreshing to quickly dry the re-wet parts and add volume. But air drying is fine too since refresh water is minimal and dries fast.
When to Fully Re-Wash: You’ll know it’s time when refreshing doesn’t restore the curls (they stay frizzy/limp), or scalp feels dirty/itchy, or product buildup is making hair dull. Typically after a few days, curls accumulate enough sweat, dust, etc., plus product layers, that a fresh wash is best.
Adjusting the Routine for You: Not all curly hair is the same, so consider factors like hair texture (fine vs coarse), density (sparse vs thick), and climate. For example, fine curly hair might need lighter products and perhaps more frequent washing (since oils weigh it down more). Coarser hair might handle heavier creams and need extra leave-in. If you live in a humid climate, you might prefer a strong hold gel to combat frizz and might use a bit less leave-in (since hair can soak moisture from the air). In dry climates, more leave-in and richer creams could be helpful. Common Routine Mistakes: Avoid using too much product it can cause buildup or weigh down curls so they lose definition. Apply enough for frizz control but if your hair looks greasy or flat, reduce quantities. Another mistake is being too rough (always detangle gently and avoid rough towel drying). Also, not adapting to weather e.g., in winter, you might need more moisture or to dry hair fully before going out (wet hair in cold can get frizzy or even freeze!). In summer humidity, you might need anti-humectant serums or stronger hold. Scalp Care: A healthy routine also includes taking care of your scalp. Occasionally massage oils (like a pre-poo with coconut or jojoba oil) into scalp for moisture if you have dry scalp, or use a gentle exfoliating treatment if you have flakes (brown sugar + conditioner scrub, for example). A clean, balanced scalp will grow better hair. Flexibility: Build a routine but be flexible for circumstances. For instance, maybe your routine is wash every 4 days, but you work out daily you might incorporate co-washing mid-cycle to cleanse sweat. Or if one week your hair feels extra dry, throw in an extra deep conditioning session. Listen to your hair a good routine responds to what your curls are telling you.
Example Routine Summary: (Putting it all together) Let’s say Jane has type 3B curls, medium porosity, medium density. Her routine might look like: Wash Day (Sunday): Pre-poo with a bit of conditioner, shampoo with sulfate-free curl cleanser (2x week), rinse. Apply rich conditioner, detangle, let sit 5 minutes, rinse out most. Apply leave-in conditioner, then curl gel by scrunching. Plop for 15 minutes while dressing. Diffuse hair until 80% dry, air dry rest. Scrunch out crunch for soft curls. Sleep in pineapple with satin bonnet. Day 2 (Monday): In morning, take out pineapple, spritz water on a few flattened areas, scrunch. Use tiny bit of gel on fingertips to fix one frizzy curl. Let air dry while getting ready. Curls look good. Pineapple + bonnet at night. Day 3 (Tuesday): Curls a bit frizzier. Use a leave-in spray to mist all over, scrunch to refresh curls. Diffuse for 5 minutes to reshape. Decent result, puts hair half-up if some top curls are messy. At night, decides to lightly oil her scalp and do two loose braids (protective style). Day 4 (Wednesday): It’s mid-week and hair feels product-y at roots. She co-washes with a cleansing conditioner, then conditions and styles as usual (a mid-week mini-wash). Curls revive nicely. And so on… (she’ll wash again maybe Friday or Saturday with shampoo).
This is just one example; yours might be simpler or more involved. The key is consistency doing a proper wash routine regularly, always conditioning well, styling in a way that sets curls, and protecting them between washes.