The Curly Girl Method: Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners
Introduction: The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a popular hair care approach that has revolutionized how people with wavy, curly, or coily hair care for their tresses. Created by curl expert Lorraine Massey (author of Curly Girl: The Handbook), this method is essentially a set of rules and techniques designed to enhance your natural curl pattern by eliminating harsh practices and products. In simple terms, the Curly Girl Method involves cutting out damaging ingredients (like sulfates, silicones, and drying alcohols) and adding in lots of moisture and gentle care. The goal? Healthier, more defined, and frizz-free curls. For beginners, CGM can seem a bit overwhelming all the new terminology (co-wash, plop, cast, etc.) and do’s and don’ts may confuse you. But don’t worry: this step-by-step guide will break down everything in a simple, low-stress way. We’ll cover the core principles (like skipping shampoo and avoiding certain ingredients), walk you through a basic CGM routine step by step, and highlight common mistakes to avoid. By the end, you’ll have a clear roadmap to start your Curly Girl journey. Remember, consistency and patience are key transitioning to CGM is “a marathon, not a sprint” as many curlies say. Let’s dive into how to get started embracing your natural curls!
Curly Girl Method Principles (The “Rules”): Before jumping into the routine, it’s important to understand the fundamental guidelines of CGM, since these will inform everything you do: Skip Shampoo (No Harsh Sulfates): Traditional shampoos often contain sulfates strong detergents that create lather but also strip natural oils. CGM recommends giving up shampoos with sulfates and either using a sulfate-free cleanser or none at all (more on co-washing below). Curly hair is naturally drier and struggles to retain moisture, so avoiding sulfate shampoos prevents further drying out your curls. Instead, you cleanse with gentler methods that we’ll detail in the steps. (Note: Some CGM followers use the term “no-poo” for the practice of not using traditional shampoo). No Silicones or Harsh Ingredients: CGM has a blacklist of ingredients to avoid in your hair products. Chief among them are silicones (often found in conditioners and styling products) because while they can make hair feel smooth initially, they build up and are hard to wash out without sulfates. Other ingredients to avoid include mineral oil, waxes, non-natural heavy oils, drying alcohols, and parabens. Silicones and mineral oils, for example, can coat the hair and actually block moisture from entering, leading to dryness over time. The motto is: if a product isn’t “curly girl approved” (free of those ingredients), it can eventually sabotage your results. Learning to read labels is important many CG beginners use online ingredient checkers to verify if a product is CG-safe. Emphasize Moisture: Hydration is the cornerstone of the Curly Girl Method. Curly hair’s anatomy (with cuticles that don’t lay flat) makes it harder to retain water, so the method stacks moisture at every step. This means using conditioners liberally, leaving some conditioner in, applying leave-in conditioners, using gels that lock in moisture, etc. The idea is to saturate curls with moisture and keep it there to achieve softness and definition. Eliminate Damage Causes: CGM also encourages giving up or minimizing practices that damage curl structure. This includes heat styling (like flat irons, curling irons) high heat can permanently alter curl pattern and cause dryness, so CGM recommends air-drying or at most using a diffuser on low heat. It also means no brushing hair when dry (since brushing disrupts curl clumps and causes breakage and frizz). Additionally, using gentler hair accessories (no rough elastics or anything that can snag) and treating your hair “like a fine fabric” (one motto is to handle your hair as gently as you would a delicate cashmere sweater). Sleeping on satin pillowcases or using bonnets, and avoiding chemical treatments that straighten or alter curls, are also part of protective measures. Be Patient and Consistent: The CGM community often notes that it can take weeks or even a few months to see the full improvements. Your hair might go through a “transition phase” where it feels greasy or frizzy as it adjusts to no sulfates/silicones. Don’t be discouraged consistency is key. Over time, as your hair is freed from drying detergents and heavy non-water-soluble residues, you’ll notice better moisture retention, enhanced curl pattern, and less frizz. Also, remember CGM isn’t one-size-fits-all; it can be tweaked. For example, some wavies (type 2 hair) find they need the occasional low-poo shampoo. And that’s okay CGM can be modified to suit your hair’s needs, it’s not a rigid dogma.
Now that we have the principles in mind, let’s walk through the Step-by-Step Curly Girl Method Routine for beginners. We’ll assume you’re starting fresh and want the simplest effective routine.
STEP 0: The “Final Reset” Wash (Clarifying) If you’re new to CGM, your hair likely has buildup from silicones, oils, or products not compatible with the method. The Curly Girl Method starts with one last traditional wash to “reset” your hair. Use a clarifying shampoo (ideally one with sulfates, since those are most effective at removing silicones) one last time. This washes away any accumulated silicones, waxes, or heavy buildup that could prevent your new CG-friendly products from working. Essentially, you’re creating a clean slate. How to do it: Shampoo thoroughly, maybe even twice, focusing on scrubbing the scalp and working the lather through the lengths to cleanse all residues. Rinse well. You might follow with a basic conditioner if your hair feels very stripped (since clarifying shampoos can be harsh). After this final “reset wash,” you will stop using shampoos with sulfates in your routine. Keep that clarifying shampoo though you’ll use it occasionally (maybe once a month or when buildup occurs) as a reset, even after starting CGM, to keep your scalp healthy and product buildup at bay. Tip: Some people use a diluted apple cider vinegar rinse or a clarifying treatment instead of a sulfate shampoo for this step, but the key is a thorough cleanse. Once this is done, you’re ready to officially embark on the Curly Girl Method.
STEP 1: Co-Wash / Gentle Cleanse Now that you’ve done the final reset, your regular cleansing step in CGM will typically be co-washing, especially if you have curly or coily hair. Co-washing means “conditioner washing”: using a conditioner or a special cleansing conditioner to wash your scalp and hair instead of shampoo. Why? It’s a much gentler way to clean, since conditioners have mild cleansing agents that remove some dirt and oils without stripping the hair’s natural moisture. How to co-wash: Take a generous amount of your co-wash or silicone-free conditioner and massage it into your scalp thoroughly, using your fingertips (not nails) to rub in circular motions. This physical motion dislodges dirt and oils from the scalp. Don’t be shy really work it in everywhere you would normally use shampoo: around the hairline, crown, nape, etc. This might take a few minutes of massaging. Then, smooth the conditioner down the lengths of your hair as well. You likely won’t get any lather (most co-washes don’t foam), and that’s okay. After massaging, rinse out the conditioner while continuing to gently rub the scalp to assist in cleansing. The result should be a clean-feeling, refreshed scalp, but without the “squeaky” dry feeling a sulfate shampoo would give. Who should co-wash? According to CGM, everyone can try co-washing, especially those with dry curls. But if you have fine hair or a very oily scalp, you may find co-washing alone doesn’t feel sufficient. In that case, you can alternate co-wash days with a sulfate-free shampoo day (often called “low-poo”). The method is flexible; some beginners start with co-wash only and later add a gentle shampoo occasionally. The key is, if you do use a shampoo, ensure it’s sulfate-free and ideally silicone-free (often labeled “low-poo”). This way you still adhere to CG principles of gentleness. For this step, the bottom line is to cleanse in a way that doesn’t strip moisture. Many curly girls report their hair felt greasy or limp the first week or two of co-washing if that happens, remember you can clarify if needed or do a gentle shampoo occasionally. Eventually, your scalp often adjusts and might produce less oil when not being stripped by harsh shampoos. One more tip: take your time rinsing out the co-wash. Since it’s conditioner, if you don’t rinse well, you could have leftover product on scalp leading to buildup. So thoroughly rinse and even scrub while rinsing.
STEP 2: Condition (Hydrate and Detangle) After cleansing, CGM emphasizes conditioning heavily. This step typically has two parts: regular conditioning and possibly “squish to condish”, plus deciding how much conditioner to leave in. First, use a generous amount of a silicone-free, CG-approved conditioner on your hair lengths (from mid-length to ends, where hair is driest). Many find it useful to flip their head upside down in the shower at this point, which helps curls clump together and makes it easier to work product through. Work the conditioner through your hair, and then detangle gently using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb. The conditioner provides slip, making it easier to remove knots without breakage. Detangling in this step is crucial CGM says no brushing dry hair, so all detangling happens when wet with conditioner. Take your time and make sure you can run fingers through sections. If you encounter a tough knot, add more conditioner to that spot and gently ease it out. Now, Squish to Condish: This is a popular CG technique meaning you scrunch the conditioner into your hair with water. After detangling, tilt your head forward, gather some water (from the shower) in your hands along with the conditioner that’s already in your hair, and scrunch upward, squeezing that water-conditioner mix into the curls. You’ll hear a “squishy” sound that’s good. Essentially, you’re using the water to help the conditioner penetrate and to encourage curl clumping. Do this squishing motion all around. It helps curls start forming while ultra-hydrated with conditioner and water. Many curlies swear this technique gives them better definition and moisture. Once you’ve conditioned and squished, you have a decision: you can either rinse out the conditioner fully, or only partially (and leave some in as a leave-in conditioner). The CGM beginner approach often is to rinse most of it out, but not completely leaving a slight coating of conditioner helps keep hair moisturized. If your hair is very fine and easily weighed down, you might rinse more thoroughly and then use a separate lightweight leave-in. If your hair is very dry or coarse, you might leave more of the conditioner without rinsing. Find a balance that leaves your hair feeling silky but not greasy. Note: The Curly Girl Handbook suggests that for some, the rinse-out conditioner alone (left in) is enough and you may not even need a separate leave-in. Others prefer to rinse fully and then apply a dedicated leave-in. Either way, at this stage your hair should be detangled, well conditioned, and dripping wet. Do not towel-dry or squeeze out too much water yet moving to styling works best on very wet hair.
STEP 3: Style (While Wet) Styling under CGM typically involves applying one or more styling products to soaking wet hair to define curls and set them in place. The most common styling product in CGM is a gel, because gels help lock the curl shape and fight frizz by forming a cast around the hair as it dries. Some people also use curl creams or mousse, but as a beginner, a good gel is your friend. Here’s how to style step by step: After conditioning, with your hair still wet (you can gently squeeze out just a little excess water so it’s not pouring, but it should still be very wet), apply a leave-in conditioner if you plan to use one (if you left in your rinse-out, you can skip adding more leave-in). Distribute the leave-in lightly, mainly on lengths and ends. Next, take your styling gel (make sure it’s CG-approved: no drying alcohols or non-water-soluble silicones). Use a generous amount much more than you might if your hair was dry. For shoulder-length hair, for example, you might start with a puddle of gel in your palm about the size of a quarter or two, and you can add more as needed. Flip your head upside down or to the side, and scrunch the gel into your curls. Scrunching means you open your hand, place a section of hair (from the ends) in your palm, then close your hand and push the hair up towards the scalp, then release. This encourages the curl formation (the curl will spring up towards the scalp as you scrunch). As you scrunch, the gel will be distributed. Do this all around your head, reapplying gel to your hands as needed. Ensure every section gets some love. Alternatively or additionally, you can use the “prayer hands” method to apply product: split hair into sections, coat your hands with gel, then sandwich a section of hair between your hands and smooth down from roots to ends (like praying hands sliding down the hair). This can help distribute product evenly and lay down the cuticles. Then scrunch after that to encourage curl shape. The key is to get the gel on while hair is wet enough that the curls are clumped together nicely. You should see your curl pattern already forming while wet. If your hair isn’t wet enough, you can spritz with water or even keep a bit of water running and wet your hands as you scrunch. At this point, many CGM folks also plop their hair. Plopping is a technique where you gently lower your wet, product-laden curls onto a T-shirt or microfiber towel and wrap it up, allowing the curls to dry a bit in a scrunched/clumped state on top of your head. It can enhance definition and soak up excess water without friction. As a beginner, plopping for 1015 minutes after applying gel can be helpful, but it’s optional. Use a smooth cotton shirt or microfiber towel (regular terry cloth towels can rough up the hair and cause frizz). Some curlies skip plopping and go straight to drying. Either way, once gel is applied, do not comb or brush you want those curl clumps to remain undisturbed. You might be concerned that the hair feels sticky or looks stringy with all that gel don’t worry, as it dries the gel will harden into a “cast” that actually protects the curls during drying. We’ll deal with that crunchiness in the next step.
Quick note on choosing styling products: For beginners, a single gel might be enough. But some prefer layering, for example applying a cream then a gel on top (the cream adds moisture/softness, gel adds hold). If you use a cream, make sure it’s lightweight and apply it before the gel. Too many products can complicate things and cause buildup, so start simple. Also, amount matters don’t be afraid of using enough gel. A common newbie mistake is not using enough product, leading to frizz and weak hold. It can feel weird to use a palmful of gel, but curly hair often needs it. As one curly expert noted, “I would never cap my wash day without gel nothing else will give type 2/3 waves and curls lasting hold”. So embrace the gel!
STEP 4: Dry (Hands Off!) After styling, it’s time to dry your curls. CGM encourages air-drying whenever possible to avoid heat damage and frizz. The mantra is “gel and go” let your hair air dry with the product in it, and don’t touch it until it’s fully dry. Touching wet/sticky curls will cause frizz and disrupt the clumps. If air-drying, be prepared that it can take several hours, especially if you have thick hair. You can occasionally gently blot any dripping water with your microfiber towel or T-shirt (just blot, don’t rub or scrunch now since we don’t want to remove the product). If you plopped, after 10-20 minutes, remove the plop and then let hair dry freely. Your hair will probably look flat or oddly shaped when you first take it out of the plop, but it will settle as it dries.
For those who cannot air-dry (due to time or climate), using a diffuser attachment on a blow-dryer is the CGM-approved method of drying with minimal disruption. Keep the heat on low or medium and the airflow on low to avoid blasting the curls around (CGM is okay with diffusing on low heat; it’s direct high heat from flat irons or regular blowdrying without a diffuser that’s most damaging). To diffuse, you can hover the diffuser around your head without touching the hair, or gently bring sections of hair into the diffuser bowl and hold it to your scalp (“pixie diffusing”). This can actually help boost volume and set curls faster. Just remember to be gentle and not to rake through with your fingers while diffusing. Many find a hybrid approach works: air-dry for 20 minutes, then diffuse to 80% dry, then air-dry the rest of the way, for example.
Whichever drying method, the rule is don’t mess with the curls while they’re drying. They will likely harden up due to the gel cast that’s normal. They might also shrink up more as they dry (curls always do). Resist the urge to scrunch or play with them yet.
STEP 5: Break the Cast (Scrunch Out the Crunch) & Finish Once your hair is 100% dry (not even a little damp), it’s time for the magical last step: scrunching out the crunch. Your curls probably feel stiff or crunchy from the dried gel cast. To soften them, simply use your hands to scrunch the curls (the same motion as earlier) and gently “crackle” the cast. You can also lightly scrunch with a soft T-shirt or microfiber cloth if you prefer. As you scrunch, the hard gel cast breaks and your curls become soft, bouncy, and defined, but still hold their shape. This step is super satisfying suddenly your hair goes from wet-look ramen noodles to fluffy, juicy curls. If needed, you can smooth a drop of hair oil on your palms while scrunching for extra softness and shine. After scrunching out the crunch, you can also shake out the roots a bit to create volume (insert your fingers at the scalp and gently give a shake, without combing through). The result should be touchable curls with no residue the gel cast did its job protecting the curls as they dried, and now it’s gone.
At this point, step back and admire your curls! They should look defined, clumped, and hopefully less frizzy than if you’d just air-dried with no product or with a regular routine.
Routine Maintenance and Tips: Now that we’ve covered the wash day process, here are some ongoing practices and tips for success with the Curly Girl Method: Frequency: Many CGM beginners ask, how often should I be co-washing or doing this routine? It depends on your hair and lifestyle. A common schedule for curly hair is washing (co-wash or low-poo) about 1-3 times a week. Wavier types might do 2-3 times, coilier types 1-2 times a week. In between, if hair gets dry, you can simply wet it and condition, or if it’s not dirty you can refresh curls without fully washing (see next point). Refresh Days: You don’t have to do the whole routine daily. On non-wash days, you can refresh your curls in the morning by lightly misting hair with water or a watered-down conditioner, scrunching to re-activate yesterday’s products, and letting dry. Some use a small amount of curl cream or gel on damp fingers to redefine any flattened curls. The CG Method embraces “second-day” or “third-day” hair curls often look better the day after washing once they settle. If roots are flat, you can mist and diffuse upside down briefly to revive volume. If ends are dry, scrunch in a pea-size amount of conditioner or a lightweight curl lotion. Clarify Occasionally: Even though you’re avoiding sulfates, you will still need to occasionally clarify to remove buildup from co-washing and heavy conditioning. CGM experts suggest using a clarifying shampoo (sulfate-free is fine if formulated to clarify, or a traditional sulfate shampoo if you don’t mind) about once a month or whenever you notice your curls getting dull, lank, or product-laden. After clarifying, do a deep conditioning treatment since clarifiers can be drying. This resets your hair and keeps the routine effective. Deep Condition and Protein: Pay attention to your hair’s moisture vs protein balance. CGM focuses on moisture, but curls also sometimes need protein (to strengthen hair). Use a deep conditioning mask regularly (every 1-2 weeks or as needed) to give an intense hydration boost. If your curls feel overly soft, limp and overly elastic, you might need a protein-rich treatment (look for keratin, amino acids, etc., in a mask). If they feel straw-like or brittle, focus on moisture. Some CG-friendly brands offer protein-free conditioners for low porosity hair and protein treatments for high porosity choose what suits your hair. Avoid Common Mistakes: Beginners often hit a few bumps: Using too much oil or butter: While CGM says avoid non-natural oils, some people slather coconut oil etc. thinking more moisture but too much oil can actually block moisture and cause buildup (and then you’ll need a sulfate to remove it). Use butters/oils sparingly, mainly for sealing in moisture on ends if needed. Not clarifying: As mentioned, skipping clarifying is a big mistake; co-wash alone can lead to gunk on the scalp (which causes itchiness or curl droop). If your curls suddenly feel off, a good clarify can revive them. Giving up too soon: It’s easy to get frustrated in the first few weeks if your hair looks frizzy or oily. Remember the advice: “This is a marathon, not a sprint”. It can take time for your scalp to adjust oil production, and for your hair to purge silicones and get used to richer moisture. Stick with it for at least a month. Take photos of your hair each week to track progress; many are surprised that what felt like no improvement actually shows visible curl definition gains after a few weeks. Using non-CG products by accident: It’s worth double-checking your product ingredients. A single use of a heavy silicone product can coat your hair and make it appear limp then your co-wash can’t fully remove it, and curls suffer. If that happens, just clarify and get back on track. With time, you’ll learn which products are reliably CG-friendly. Online communities and ingredient databases (like CurlsBot) are helpful. Overdoing styling products: You do want enough gel, but using every product under the sun can backfire. Simplicity often works best a conditioner, a gel, maybe a leave-in. If you layer 5 different creams and custards, you risk buildup and inconsistent results. Start with minimal products and add one at a time if needed. Skipping the “scrunch out” step: Some newbies fear their hair feels crunchy and they leave it that way. The cast is not the final look always scrunch it out once fully dry. That’s when your hair softens up and looks great. If you don’t, you’ll have stiff hair and you might think CGM made it worse, when in fact you just didn’t complete the last step. Adjust to Your Hair’s Needs:** CGM is flexible. If you find pure co-washing makes your scalp unhappy, it’s okay to incorporate a gentle sulfate-free shampoo (often called “low-poo”) maybe once a week. If you find gel alone is too crunchy, try a softer styling cream or use a smaller amount of gel. The key principles are the same: no sulfates, no silicones, lots of moisture, gentle care. Within that, you can experiment. For example, some with wavy hair do a “modified CGM” where they shampoo occasionally and focus more on lightweight products and they still see great improvement in their waves. On the flip side, someone with very tight curls might need heavier products and even more infrequent washing.
Case Study Example: Let’s illustrate a beginner’s experience. Suppose Jane has 3A/3B curls that were always frizzy. She flat ironed a lot and washed daily with regular shampoo. She learned about CGM and decided to try. On Day 1, she did a sulfate clarify wash and deep conditioned. Then she co-washed and styled with gel. Her curls looked better but still frizzy and a bit greasy at roots (her scalp was adjusting to not being stripped). She persisted. By week 3, she noticed her curls clumping more and frizz reducing. She clarified once in that period when curls felt product-y. By month 2, she had figured out the right amount of leave-in and gel for her hair, and her curls were significantly more defined and soft. She no longer needed to flat iron; in fact, she was getting “curl envy” comments from friends on her ringlets. The key was sticking with the routine, learning her hair’s preferences (she found a quick cool rinse at the end of conditioning helped her cuticles lay flat), and not reverting to old habits. Her routine became second nature.